Issue 72
From My Desk
Hi Everyone!
So…it’s been a while.
Five months since the last one of these actually and I’m not going to pretend there’s some clever reason for the gap. The answer is that I got busy in ways I didn’t expect and the newsletter kept getting bumped to next week. You know how that goes…
Since September, a few things have happened. We announced a major distribution partnership with Iofina. One of the world’s few producers of iodine, and we’re now helping them establish a market here in Europe. I’ve also been quietly providing expertise to improve models for a top AI lab (I’d love to share more on that one – but I’m not allowed to!). And somewhere between all that I’ve been training for a half ironman in 11-weeks.
But the real reason I’m writing again is because there’s genuinely exciting stuff happening in ingredients right now. So, this is me committing to writing more often again.
Let’s crack on…
Spotlight - Nanomox Zinc Oxide
If you formulate with Zinc Oxide, you already know the trade-offs between broad spectrum protection and fighting against whitening, heavy sensorials, and limited transparency.
Nanomox is an Imperial College spinout that has a new technology to change all that.
Led by Dr Francisco Malaret, they’ve built an ionic liquid manufacturing platform (basically a way to produce Zinc Oxide nanoparticles with far more control over size and morphology than conventional methods). The result is a ZnO that performs significantly better on UV absorption while maintaining natural, reef-safe credentials.
They closed a £2.4 million seed round led by TSP Ventures earlier this year, and they’re building their first pilot plant – “Catalyst 1” – in London, with production expected Q3/Q4 this year. First commercial product is a Zinc Oxide targeted specifically at sunscreen formulations, with launch planned for Q3 2026.
I’ve been in conversation with Francisco for a while now (6-years perhaps?) and I’ve seen the early data. Without going into specifics, the UV performance is really impressive. We’re talking best-in-class for mineral UV blockers.
This is exactly the kind of ingredient Alchem exists to find. Brand new technology, real science behind it, and a team that needs a route to market in CPC. We’re working on how we can help bring this to formulators and brands as soon as commercially ready.
If you’re working on sun care or mineral-based formulations, this is one to watch. Drop me a note if you want to be one of the first to know when samples are available.
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3 Things I’m Watching
Tariffs,shipping, and the Middle East. The geopolitical situation isn’t getting any simpler. Between Red Sea disruptions, US tariffs, and ongoing instability in the Middle East, supply chains for chemical raw materials are under real pressure. If you’re sourcing from Asia, it’s worth reviewing your lead times now rather than getting caught out in a few months’ time.
Transactiva and plant molecular farming. We’ve been working with Transactiva who are producing recombinant proteins using plants instead of bioreactors. It’s early days commercially, but the technology is fascinating and the cost implications for actives could be significant. Samples are out with a few brands already.
Petrolatum replacement is accelerating. The push to remove petroleum-derived ingredients from CPC formulations is becoming more mainstream. I’ve been impressed by plant-based gel systems that match petrolatum’s barrier performance with a better skin feel.
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If you’re a formulator or brand looking for something genuinely different for your next launch. I’d love to hear what you’re working on. No pitch, just hit reply and tell me what you’re formulating, and I’ll tell you if I’ve got something that fits.
Thanks
Aaron
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Thanks for reading, and see you next week.
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